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Granite Ware Pressure Canner and Cooker/Steamer, 12-Quart, Black

Granite Ware F0732-2 Pressure Canner and Cooker/Steamer, 12-Quart, Black

T-fal/wearever 92112 Pressure Cooker/canner 12 Qt

  • 12-Qt Canner with steamer trivet
  • Can hold 4 quart jars, 7 pint jars or 8 half-pint jars
  • Hard anodized aluminum construction
  • UL-certified for safety

 

The 12-quart Granite Ware Pressure Canner holds 4 quart, 7 pint or 8 half-pint jars and includes a steamer trivet. Made of hard anodized aluminum, the canner can be used as a pressure cooker and steamer without changing the flavor or color of food. Use to elevate the food temperature above 240-degrees, which kills bacteria found in low acid foods such as meats, poultry, fish and some vegetables. UL-certified for safety and canning confidence.

List Price: $ 96.69 ($20 SAVINGS)

Price: $ 76.69

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7 Comments/Reviews

  • Karla V Urdaneta says:

    1. In selecting the wire size for a line cord, you should remember that
    A. No. 16 is larger than No. 12.
    B. No. 14 carries more current than No. 18.
    C. No. 8 is smaller than No. 10.
    D. No. 4 carries less current than No. 6.

    2. Which one of the following appliance parts gets the hardest service?
    A. Switch
    B. Thermostat
    C. Heating element
    D. Line cord

    3. The color used for the hot side of house wiring is
    A. green.
    B. white.
    C. gray.
    D. black.

    4. An AWG No. 16 line cord with type HPN insulation has an ampacity of
    A. 12 amp.
    B. 13 amp.
    C. 15 amp.
    D. 17 amp.

    5. To heat a room quickly, some electric room heaters are provided with
    A. a heavy metal case.
    B. a motor-driven fan.
    C. a push-button switch.
    D. an automatic thermostat.

    6. If the current flowing through an electric heater increases from 6 to 12 amp while the voltage remains the same, the heat produced by the heater will be
    A. reduced one-half.
    B. unchanged.
    C. two times the original heat.
    D. four times the original heat.

    7. The wires used in a heating element are usually made of
    A. copper.
    B. steel.
    C. aluminum.
    D. Nichrome.

    8. Why does a thermostat blade bend when heated or cooled?
    A. It is made of two different materials.
    B. There is a difference in temperature between the blade ends.
    C. Different currents are applied to each end.
    D. Mechanical pressure is caused by the high resistance.

    9. When you are checking an electric heating appliance, the first test made should be for
    A. excessive leakage.
    B. the normal voltage supply.
    C. an open circuit.
    D. low resistance.

    10. Why should you NOT repair heating elements by soldering?
    A. Solder does not conduct electric current.
    B. Solder joints are mechanically too weak.
    C. Solder melts at the operating temperature of the heater.
    D. Soldered joints have too high a resistance.

    11. What type of selector switch can be used to control the heat output of three elements connected in parallel?
    A. SPST switch
    B. DPST switch
    C. DPDT switch
    D. Shorting-bar-type switch

    12. Thermostats used in electric irons differ from those in small room heaters in that they are
    A. smaller in size.
    B. operative at higher temperatures.
    C. connected directly to the appliance plug.
    D. mechanically more fragile.

    13. How can you clean out the scales in an electric iron without taking the iron apart?
    A. By blowing out the holes with compressed air
    B. By scraping the tank and tubes with a drill bit
    C. By brushing the clogged tubes with a stiff wire brush
    D. By rinsing the tank and holes with a water-diluted chemical

    14. Bus bars are used in an electric iron as
    A. thermostat supports.
    B. heat-adjusting resistors.
    C. connectors between the thermostat and the element.
    D. electrical terminals.

    15. The water in a spray iron is prevented from returning to the tank by the action of a
    A. suction tube.
    B. check valve.
    C. water pump.
    D. pressure spring.

    16. The heating element in an electric iron is in good working order if the resistance across the terminals of the element reads approximately
    A. 0 ohms.
    B. 15 ohms.
    C. 120 ohms.
    D. 1000 ohms.

    17. Why does the heat of the heating element stop when the desired temperature in an electric iron is reached?
    A. The thermostat blade opens electrical contacts.
    B. The circuit through the element is closed.
    C. The switch bypasses the thermostat.
    D. The contacts on the blade touch.

    18. Jumpering out the resistors in a resistance-controlled three-speed fan will cause the motor to
    A. run at highest speed.
    B. run at medium speed.
    C. run at lowest speed.
    D. stop immediately.

    19. A fan equipped with a gearbox is capable of
    A. running at three speeds.
    B. being tilted downward.
    C. oscillating from side to side.
    D. reversing the direction of the motor.

    20. If the fan blades rattle while the fan is turning, you can stop the noise by
    A. oiling the blades.
    B. adjusting the blade angles and the blade tip position.
    C. tightening the motor end bells and motor mounts.
    D. cleaning the blade surfaces.

    21. The recommended way to hold a loose hub on a fan is by
    A. riveting.
    B. soldering.
    C. welding.
    D. cementing.

    22. Quiet operation of a fan depends mostly upon the
    A. weight of the blades.
    B. material of the blades.
    C. motor balance.
    D. balance of the blades.

    23. The blades of small fans are made of
    A. aluminum.
    B. steel.
    C. tin.
    D. copper.

    24. A modern variable-speed fan does NOT use
    A. a tapped inductor.
    B. a multiple-winding motor.
    C. an electronic speed control.
    D. a dropping resistor.

    25. An attic fan, or power ventilator, may have its power inadvertently tapped from
    A. an upstairs bathroom.
    B. an attic lighting circuit.
    C. a basement service.
    D. an air conditioning circuit.

  • Joe Maigaard says:

    Looking for a pressure canner, NOT a water canner for under $80 and would like it to be a decent size… target has a few online but they’re all around $100 and a little out of my budget… So any other options help… Already checking on ebay, so please don’t just suggest that. thanks!

  • Edgar J. Nieves "savingabuck" says:
    5 of 5 people found the following review helpful
    5.0 out of 5 stars
    cooking, October 8, 2010
    By 
    Edgar J. Nieves “savingabuck” (connecticut) –
    (REAL NAME)
      

    Amazon Verified Purchase(What’s this?)
    This review is from: T-fal/wearever 92112 Pressure Cooker/canner 12 Qt

    This unit has been used every day. And I mean every day. For those out there who have never used a pressure cooker, get on board. This item is great but I just hope it will last with the constant abuse we are giving it. Quality product.

    Help other customers find the most helpful reviews 

    Was this review helpful to you? Yes
    No

  • Betsy Bartlett says:

    11 Answer:
    If squirting engine oil through the spark-plug hole does not increase
    compression pressure, all the following could be the cause EXCEPT
    a. leakage past the valves
    b. a broken valve spring
    c. worn camshaft lobe
    d. worn oil-control rings

    12 Answer:
    A compression test on an inline six-cylinder engine shows that cylinders
    3 and 4 have readings of 10 psi (69 kPa). The other cylinders all read
    between 130 and 135 psi (897 and 932 kPa). Technician A says this is
    probably due to a blown head gasket. Technician B says the cause could
    be improper valve timing. Who is right?
    a. A only
    b. B only
    c. both A and B
    d. neither A nor B

    13 Answer:
    A vacuum-gauge needle that swings around to 23 to 25 inches (584 to
    635 mm) of mercury after the throttle is quickly opened and released
    indicates
    a. stuck valves
    b. low compression
    c. good compression
    d. leaky valves

    14 Answer:
    A steady but low vacuum reading with the engine idling indicates that
    the engine
    a. is losing power
    b. has a stuck valves
    c. exhaust system is restricted
    d. ignition timing is advanced

    15 Answer:
    Technician A says to use tailpipe measurements of HC and CO to check the
    operation of the catalytic converter. Technician B says tailpipe
    measurements of O2 and CO2 indicate the air-fuel ratio of the mixture
    entering the cylinder. Who is right?
    a. A only
    b. B only
    c. both A and B
    d. neither A nor B

    16 Answer:
    Failure to start even though the engine cranks normally could be due to
    a
    a. run-down battery
    b. defective starting motor
    c. sticking engine valve
    d. defective ignition module or pickup coil

    17 Answer:
    An engine will lose power (hot or cold) if it has
    a. air leaks into intake manifold
    b. automatic choke stuck open
    c. incorrect idle speed
    d. cooling-system thermostat stuck closed

    18 Answer:
    Engine stalling after high-speed driving can be caused by
    a. vapor lock
    b. incorrect ignition timing
    c. worn carburetor jets
    d. defective fuel injectors

    19 Answer:
    High emissions of both HC an CO may be caused by all the following
    EXCEPT
    a. a missing or inoperative catalytic converter
    b. crossfiring
    c. an inoperative air pump
    d. charcoal canister not purging

    20 Answer:
    Excessive fuel consumption may be caused by
    a. low fuel-pump pressure
    b. overinflated tires
    c. coolant-temperature sensor failure
    d. low idle speed

  • Eric Winkfield says:

    I have a 1993 gmc sierra that has a chevy 350 small block and an automatic transmission. Generally when my truck is cold i get about 70 psi of oil pressure and sometimes when the truck is fully warmed up or has been driven for a while. The psi drops to 40 psi at idle and will jump to 60 psi when the rpms get to about 1000+rpms.
    When my psi is at 40 and i am idle at a stop, i get a rough idle. The rough idle sometimes makes the rpms jump around about 30 higher and lower from the base reading of about 500 everytime that i feel the rough idle.
    If i keep the rpms below 1000 and just keep it there while driving (such as when just moving slowly in traffic) the truck feels like it is having trouble keeping the rpms constant and i can hear a noticable change in the engine speed as if it could die if it was worse.
    From a stop, if i accelerate while staying under the 1000 rpms there is also a delay that feels as if the timing was off.
    I checked and set the timing myself back to what factory specs, and manual both say. It is a new distributor, cap, rotor, coil, ignition switch, idle air control, fairly new plugs and wires, new camshaft and lifters, cleaned the Throttle body,. And i experience this before and after i installed these parts.

  • Shannon OGrady says:

    I’m turning fifteen and my parents promised me a car and I really like the 2011 dodge charger but I also know it has somewhat questionale reliability and I’m considering the V6 version and this is the reliability data for it if you want to see for yourselves (This reliability data is owned by Consumer Reports)

    ENGINE MAJOR: Engine rebuild or replacement, cylinder head, head gasket, turbocharger or supercharger and timing chain or belt.

    ENGINE MINOR: Oil leaks, accessory and pulleys, engine mounts, engine knock or ping.

    ENGINE COOLING: Radiator, cooling fan, water pump, thermostat, antifreeze leaks, overheating.

    TRANSMISSION (AND CLUTCH)-MAJOR: Transmission rebuild or replacement, torque converter, premature clutch replacement.

    TRANSMISSION (AND CLUTCH)-MINOR: Gear selector and linkage, coolers and lines, transmission computer, transmission sensor or solenoid, clutch adjustment, hydraulics (clutch master or slave cylinder); rough shifting, slipping transmission.

    DRIVE SYSTEM: Driveshaft or axle, CV joint, differential, transfer case, four-wheel-drive/all-wheel-drive components, driveline vibration, electrical failure.

    FUEL SYSTEM: Check-engine light, sensors (O2 or oxygen sensor), emission-control devices (includes EGR), fuel-injection system, engine computer, fuel cap, fuel gauge/sender, fuel pump, fuel leaks, stalling or hesitation.

    ENGINE ELECTRICAL: Starter, alternator, hybrid battery and related system, regular battery, battery cables, engine harness, coil, ignition switch, electronic ignition, distributor or rotor failure, spark plugs and wires failure.

    CLIMATE SYSTEM: A/C compressor, blower (fan) motor, condenser, evaporator, heating system, automatic climate system, electrical failure, refrigerant leakage.

    SUSPENSION: Shocks or struts, ball joints, tie rods, wheel bearings, alignment, steering linkage (includes rack and pinion), power steering (pumps and hoses, leaks), wheel balance, springs or torsion bars, bushings, electronic or air suspension.

    BRAKES: Antilock system (ABS), parking brake, master cylinder, calipers, rotors, pulsation or vibration, squeaking, premature wear, failure.

    PAINT/TRIM/RUST: Paint (fading, chalking, peeling or cracking), loose exterior trim or moldings, rust.

    BODY INTEGRITY (Squeaks or rattles): Seals, and/or weather stripping, loose interior trim and moldings, air and water leaks, wind noise.

    BODY HARDWARE (Power or manual): Windows, locks and latches, doors or sliding doors, tailgate, trunk or hatch, mirrors, seat controls (movement and temperature), seat belts, sunroof, convertible top, glass defects.

    POWER EQUIPMENT AND ACCESSORIES: Cruise control, clock, warning lights, body control module, keyless entry, wiper motor or washer, tire pressure monitor, interior or exterior lights, horn, gauges, 12V power plug, alarm or security system, remote engine start.

    AUDIO SYSTEM (excluding aftermarket systems): radio, speakers, antenna; cassette, CD, or DVD player; video screen, iPod & MP3 interface; SYNC, OnStar, Bluetooth; navigation system (GPS), backup camera/sensors.

    2006 Dodge Charger
    ENGINE MAJOR: Above Average
    ENGINE MINOR: Excellent
    ENGINE COOLING: Excellent
    TRANSMISSION (AND CLUTCH)-MAJOR: Excellent
    TRANSMISSION (AND CLUTCH)-MINOR: Poor
    DRIVE SYSTEM: Below Average
    FUEL SYSTEM: Average
    ELECTRICAL: Excellent
    CLIMATE SYSTEM: Poor
    SUSPENSION: Poor
    BRAKES: Poor
    PAINT/TRIM/RUST: Above Average
    BODY INTEGRITY (Squeaks or rattles): Below Average
    BODY HARDWARE (Power or manual): Below Average
    POWER EQUIPMENT AND ACCESSORIES: Average
    AUDIO SYSTEM (excluding aftermarket systems): Excellent
    OVERALL RELIABILITY – Below Average

    2007 Dodge Charger
    ENGINE MAJOR: Excellent
    ENGINE MINOR: Above Average
    ENGINE COOLING: Excellent
    TRANSMISSION (AND CLUTCH)-MAJOR: Excellent
    TRANSMISSION (AND CLUTCH)-MINOR: Poor
    DRIVE SYSTEM: Excellent
    FUEL SYSTEM: Below Average
    ELECTRICAL: Excellent
    CLIMATE SYSTEM: Poor
    SUSPENSION: Poor
    BRAKES: Above Average
    PAINT/TRIM/RUST: Above Average
    BODY INTEGRITY (Squeaks or rattles): Above Average
    BODY HARDWARE (Power or manual): Above Average
    POWER EQUIPMENT AND ACCESSORIES: Above Average
    AUDIO SYSTEM (excluding aftermarket systems): Excellent
    OVERALL RELIABILITY – Average

    2008 Dodge Charger
    ENGINE MAJOR: Excellent
    ENGINE MINOR: Excellent
    ENGINE COOLING: Excellent
    TRANSMISSION (AND CLUTCH)-MAJOR: Above average
    TRANSMISSION (AND CLUTCH)-MINOR: Below Average
    DRIVE SYSTEM: Above Average
    FUEL SYSTEM: Above Average
    ELECTRICAL: Above Average
    CLIMATE SYSTEM: Average
    SUSPENSION: Above Average
    BRAKES: Poor
    PAINT/TRIM/RUST: Excellent
    BODY INTEGRITY (Squeaks or rattles): Above Average
    BODY HARDWARE (Power or manual): Average
    POWER EQUIPMENT AND ACCESSORIES: Below Average
    AUDIO SYSTEM (excluding aftermarket systems): Below Average
    OVERALL RELIABILITY – Below Average

    2009 charger N/A
    2010 charger reliability – Average
    Also, how’s the dealership service/

  • Michael Finch says:

    I’m turning fifteen and my parents promised me a car and I really like the 2011 dodge charger but I also know it has somewhat questionale reliability and I’m considering the V6 version and this is the reliability data for it if you want to see for yourselves (This reliability data is owned by Consumer Reports)

    ENGINE MAJOR: Engine rebuild or replacement, cylinder head, head gasket, turbocharger or supercharger and timing chain or belt.

    ENGINE MINOR: Oil leaks, accessory and pulleys, engine mounts, engine knock or ping.

    ENGINE COOLING: Radiator, cooling fan, water pump, thermostat, antifreeze leaks, overheating.

    TRANSMISSION (AND CLUTCH)-MAJOR: Transmission rebuild or replacement, torque converter, premature clutch replacement.

    TRANSMISSION (AND CLUTCH)-MINOR: Gear selector and linkage, coolers and lines, transmission computer, transmission sensor or solenoid, clutch adjustment, hydraulics (clutch master or slave cylinder); rough shifting, slipping transmission.

    DRIVE SYSTEM: Driveshaft or axle, CV joint, differential, transfer case, four-wheel-drive/all-wheel-drive components, driveline vibration, electrical failure.

    FUEL SYSTEM: Check-engine light, sensors (O2 or oxygen sensor), emission-control devices (includes EGR), fuel-injection system, engine computer, fuel cap, fuel gauge/sender, fuel pump, fuel leaks, stalling or hesitation.

    ENGINE ELECTRICAL: Starter, alternator, hybrid battery and related system, regular battery, battery cables, engine harness, coil, ignition switch, electronic ignition, distributor or rotor failure, spark plugs and wires failure.

    CLIMATE SYSTEM: A/C compressor, blower (fan) motor, condenser, evaporator, heating system, automatic climate system, electrical failure, refrigerant leakage.

    SUSPENSION: Shocks or struts, ball joints, tie rods, wheel bearings, alignment, steering linkage (includes rack and pinion), power steering (pumps and hoses, leaks), wheel balance, springs or torsion bars, bushings, electronic or air suspension.

    BRAKES: Antilock system (ABS), parking brake, master cylinder, calipers, rotors, pulsation or vibration, squeaking, premature wear, failure.

    PAINT/TRIM/RUST: Paint (fading, chalking, peeling or cracking), loose exterior trim or moldings, rust.

    BODY INTEGRITY (Squeaks or rattles): Seals, and/or weather stripping, loose interior trim and moldings, air and water leaks, wind noise.

    BODY HARDWARE (Power or manual): Windows, locks and latches, doors or sliding doors, tailgate, trunk or hatch, mirrors, seat controls (movement and temperature), seat belts, sunroof, convertible top, glass defects.

    POWER EQUIPMENT AND ACCESSORIES: Cruise control, clock, warning lights, body control module, keyless entry, wiper motor or washer, tire pressure monitor, interior or exterior lights, horn, gauges, 12V power plug, alarm or security system, remote engine start.

    AUDIO SYSTEM (excluding aftermarket systems): radio, speakers, antenna; cassette, CD, or DVD player; video screen, iPod & MP3 interface; SYNC, OnStar, Bluetooth; navigation system (GPS), backup camera/sensors.

    2006 Dodge Charger
    ENGINE MAJOR: Above Average
    ENGINE MINOR: Excellent
    ENGINE COOLING: Excellent
    TRANSMISSION (AND CLUTCH)-MAJOR: Excellent
    TRANSMISSION (AND CLUTCH)-MINOR: Poor
    DRIVE SYSTEM: Below Average
    FUEL SYSTEM: Average
    ELECTRICAL: Excellent
    CLIMATE SYSTEM: Poor
    SUSPENSION: Poor
    BRAKES: Poor
    PAINT/TRIM/RUST: Above Average
    BODY INTEGRITY (Squeaks or rattles): Below Average
    BODY HARDWARE (Power or manual): Below Average
    POWER EQUIPMENT AND ACCESSORIES: Average
    AUDIO SYSTEM (excluding aftermarket systems): Excellent
    OVERALL RELIABILITY – Below Average

    2007 Dodge Charger
    ENGINE MAJOR: Excellent
    ENGINE MINOR: Above Average
    ENGINE COOLING: Excellent
    TRANSMISSION (AND CLUTCH)-MAJOR: Excellent
    TRANSMISSION (AND CLUTCH)-MINOR: Poor
    DRIVE SYSTEM: Excellent
    FUEL SYSTEM: Below Average
    ELECTRICAL: Excellent
    CLIMATE SYSTEM: Poor
    SUSPENSION: Poor
    BRAKES: Above Average
    PAINT/TRIM/RUST: Above Average
    BODY INTEGRITY (Squeaks or rattles): Above Average
    BODY HARDWARE (Power or manual): Above Average
    POWER EQUIPMENT AND ACCESSORIES: Above Average
    AUDIO SYSTEM (excluding aftermarket systems): Excellent
    OVERALL RELIABILITY – Average

    2008 Dodge Charger
    ENGINE MAJOR: Excellent
    ENGINE MINOR: Excellent
    ENGINE COOLING: Excellent
    TRANSMISSION (AND CLUTCH)-MAJOR: Above average
    TRANSMISSION (AND CLUTCH)-MINOR: Below Average
    DRIVE SYSTEM: Above Average
    FUEL SYSTEM: Above Average
    ELECTRICAL: Above Average
    CLIMATE SYSTEM: Average
    SUSPENSION: Above Average
    BRAKES: Poor
    PAINT/TRIM/RUST: Excellent
    BODY INTEGRITY (Squeaks or rattles): Above Average
    BODY HARDWARE (Power or manual): Average
    POWER EQUIPMENT AND ACCESSORIES: Below Average
    AUDIO SYSTEM (excluding aftermarket systems): Below Average
    OVERALL RELIABILITY – Below Average

    2009 charger N/A
    2010 charger reliability – Average
    Also, how’s the dealership service/

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